I've got a 2011 F150 Ecoboost and since its a Canadian version in the US, sometimes it would be nice to have those DRL (Daytime Running Lights) on Off. It sort of defeats the purpose of the lights switch in your truck, for the most part. So follow me on how to turn on or off your F150 Ecoboost DRL.
Most US vehicles will not have this option enabled but rather disabled since our law does not require it, but Canadian Law requires that your DRL be on. Manufacturers like Ford, automatically programs the F150 series trucks with the option ON. Some of us, want to have these ON and some would prefer to have this option OFF. I know plenty of folks out there that will use this guide to turn DRL on in United States, while I prefer OFF.
I know that this "F150 Ecoboost DRL" procedure has worked perfectly on 2009 - 2015 F150 Ecoboost trucks. If you find a mistake or this does not work on 2016+ please let me know. Trucks also have different trims, XLT, Platinum, etc.. which your screen and options might be different.
Step 1: Grab a copy of the program that will handle all this for you.
First step is to grab the program that will allow you to do all of this. There's plenty out there but only one, is capable of doing what we want for the price we want. FREE. Heads up however, the trial mode you get when you install it on your PC (Windows), won't do much and will request for you to have an extended license. Good thing, these program folks give you a trial. You are welcome to buy the license if you will use this for all kinds of things but for this we can survive with the few weeks of free Extended Trial license.
You can grab a copy of the software here; http://www.forscan.org/download.html
Install it on your PC (Windows), following the prompted instructions. It's pretty much straight forward like any other software install, if you've done one before. After installation the program looks like this, being the home screen of it;
Step 2: Buy a OBD2 Dongle (Wifi, USB or Bluetooth)
You will need a dongle from either Amazon, eBay or other source that connects to your Trucks computer or as we all other say it; OBD2 system. The device is pretty cheap for about $10 to $15 bucks. You can purchase one and receive it within 2 days from Amazon using Amazon Prime. Amazon being the source I would trust vs some stores like eBay, but its up to you where you purchase it. Just make sure its the correct one.
You can buy the OBD2 dongle for your F150 Ecoboost truck here; Qiker Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool
Step 3: Connect it all
a.) Next step would of course be that you connect your laptop or computer to your OBD2 port / truck. Let's first locate the OBD2 port which would be right below your steering wheel and looks like this;
b.) After you locate your port, grab your dongle you just purchased from Amazon or eBay and connect it.
c.) At this point you would go ahead and turn your ignition key to accessory. If you don't know when this accessory happens, its pretty much at the first stop of key turn, before you push it past that to start the engine. You'll feel it when you are in accessory because 1.) your dash lights and gauges will come on with a check engine light, and 2.) the key will give a little force before the final turn to start the engine. Now, it is completely alright to start your vehicle and have it running. However, you are safer to be in accessory mode.
d.) Now fire up your laptop or computer and run the Forscan program. It should automatically connect. Please remember, depending how you are making the connection between the OBD2 dongle and laptop/computer, there may be extra steps involved like installing bluetooth drivers, or setting up your wifi, etc...
4.) First time Forscan run into OBD2 or Computer Module Listing.
a.) Let's head over to our modules of our truck to grab a little bit information from the system and the first time you do this, the Forscan will ask you to backup your profile. It will backup everything the right way, the way your truck is setup so that in the future or if you make a mistake you can go back. I prefer to do this also module by module but that's another few steps I won't get into. The general profile backup of your truck should be sufficient for this DRL turn ON/OFF tutorial.
b.) The module you are looking for is called BdyCM. You would click on it, double click on it to enter its configuration screen.
5.) Finally, turn OFF or ON your DRL (Daytime Running Lights)
Now that you are at the screen very similar to the screen below; you will try to locate the item in the list called "Daytime Running Lamp". This should state "Disabled" or "Enabled". If you have DRL ON, you would see "Enabled", if your DRL are OFF, you would have "Disabled". In my case, I wanted them off. So I would double click and it would give me the options between "Enable" or "Disable".
You would select "Disable" to disable or turn off your F150 Ecoboost DRL (Daytime Running Lights) and confirm OK.
6.) Making sure F150 Ecoboost DRL are in "Disable" mode.
After clicking Disable and returning to the main screen shown below here; your last step is to locate the PLAY type button. Before you click that button, please review your changes you did above. When ready, click the PLAY button which should ask you once again for confirmation of the changes. When clicked OK, you'll see a progress running in the program and your truck will go little nuts for a few seconds. Your exterior lights might flash and your interior lights might flash as well. When all good said and done, all this madness will stop.
Now your F150 Ecoboost DRL (Daytime Running Lights / Lamps) are OFF. To turn them ON, just follow the same procedure and select "Enable".]]>
Takes about five bucks and five minutes for the entire install. You might have to grab a few zip ties while you are at the store. Home Depot or Lowes have these.
1.) So to start, run to Home Depot and get these.
2.) Next, you will want to get under the truck and disconnect the hard hose from the Blow off valve.
3.) Just twist the Grey peice and pull, it'll come off.
4.) Next on the bottom of the driver side intake you will see another Grey twist clip on the hose, disconnect it.
5.) Then push on the rubber cap on the intake and secure it with a zip tie.
6.) That's it. You are done. And now you are venting to atmosphere, I kept my hose in the tool box, it only takes a few seconds to put it back on if needed to.
Hope this helps people out.
Originally posted and shared by CMTuner, thank you for sharing.
]]>Step 1: open fuel door and remove the Easy Fuel trim ring from the fuel filler neck. it should pop on and off easily.
Step 2 (optional): cover filler opening with small cloth, paper towel, etc to keep from dropping any foreign objects into filler neck.
top view of housing and tab placement
bottom view of housing and tab placement
Step 3: remove the 3 8mm bolts surrounding filler neck.
proper spring connector placement with door closed
proper spring connector placement with door open
Step 4: reach up under fender and behind fuel door housing assembly and feel for 4 friction snap tabs. you'll need to pinch in the top and bottom tabs on the side opposite the hinge (back side of truck) and push to pop out the entire housing. it took me a few times of working all 4 to work it out of the lip of the fender to where it was free. you'll eventually slide it out in a hooking motion bringing the rear facing side out 1st.
photo shows hinge connector pressed down into place. before this photo it was about 1/2" taller and would not grab the hinge axle so no spring tension was on the door to keep it closed
Step 5: investigate the spring and the connectors. here's where i caught a break. i have read that some of these points break off, where as mine had worked itself out of index. the hinge axle connector felt like it was sleeved over the axle pin and was not indexed or pressed into proper alignment. i released the spring off the housing side felt the action of the door hinge to the connector and simply pressed the hinge connector back down into place. insert the spring into the hinge axle side first, then snap the spring into the housing side (spring will have full tension on it). test door open/close functionality to ensure everything is working properly before re-installing.
Step 6 (optional): while i had everything out i cleaned the rubber seals and wiped off some of the dust and grime buildup on both the housing and fender indention where the housing sits.
Step 7: re-insert entire assembly hinge side first and wiggle pinch tabs into position.
Step 8: re-bolt the 3 8mm bolts to the fuel filler neck.
Step 9: snap the Easy Fuel ring back to the fuel filler neck.
Step 10: remove the optional (Step 2) cover from the fuel filler opening.
Originally Posted by Pagan696 on F150Forums.com.
]]>There is a NEW recall going around for 2011 to 2012 Ford F150s. Ford is recalling about 200,000 trucks for this. It has to do with your transmission and the speed sensor. Specifically, it is an issue with the output speed sensor on the transmission's lead frame. The underlying problem appears to be with the software within the powertrain control module, which could cause your vehicle to downshift suddenly.
Ford's statement;
"Under certain conditions, the transmission controls could force a temporary downshift into first gear. Depending on the speed of the vehicle at the time of the downshift, the driver could experience an abrupt speed reduction that could cause the rear tires to slide or lock up. This condition could result in loss of vehicle control, increasing the risk of a crash."
2011-2012 Ford F-150 RECALL
2011-2012 Ford F-150 vehicles built at Dearborn Assembly Plant and Kansas City Assembly Plant between August 19, 2011 and March 9, 2012
NOTE:
If you believe that you have an F150 that was built at either of the Assembly Plants between those dates, my encourage would be to contact Ford Customer Service or Your Local Dealer. Recall notices will be sent to owners of affected vehicles by mail.
Ford Customer Service Number
Toll-free 800-392-3673
Don't forget to sign up with F150Ecoboost.com, as we keep you up to date with new information, guides and extras!
]]>Ever wanted to replace your 3rd brake light and truck bed courtesy lights? Here's a quick step by step, how to remove the 3rd brake light, remove the original bulbs, replace them with LED, and put everything back into place.
1.) First, let's start by locating your 3rd brake light.
2.) Locate the two philip screws on either side, left and right. You'll need a philip screw driver for these. Remove both of them.
3.) After you removed both of the screws. You'll notice a black circle, its a washer seal. Mine came out on a screw and the other was stuck within the plastic brake light assembly.
4.) Slightly use a flat head screwdriver to pry the brake light housing from the fit cab of the truck. You can use your hands if you think that you might chip the plastic or break it. Either way, it should come out easy.
5.) It should easily come out. If you pull on it and its not coming out, make sure it is not stuck or glued / sealed into the cab opening. Now when you pull it out, it will look sometimes like this.
6.) At the very top right corner, the main wire is passed through a hook. If you pull to hard, you'll either rip the wires internally or you might break the plastic clip type hook. Simply guide the wire out of the hook, it makes things so much easier to deal with.
7.) Next, you can start to unscrew counter clock wise each bulb plug assembly out of the assembly. You might be surprised that as easy as it is, the bulb might fall out into the assembly before you take the wire plug out. You can see in image below, on the left side that's locked and right side is unlocked ready to get pulled.
8.) After you do all three, twist them and pull them out. You'll end up with something like this. Put the assembly aside so we can concentrate on the lighting itself.
9.) Next, if all of your bulbs stayed within you can simply pull on the slightly to pry them out. Like so;
10.) Next, let's put those shiny new LED bulbs in. However, I always like to compare and make sure that someone out of my control didn't screw up and sent me the wrong one. So a quick comparison LED vs OEM.
11.) You can now take your LED and put it into the socket. Slightly, don't push to hard not to break anything.
12.) After you got them all in, replaced with LED bulbs and before we put everything together its time to TEST. Saving you time because if something doesn't work, you'll be taking it all apart again. I've tested my brake light by making my wire hang and jumping into the truck pressing the brake pedal and looking back while I'm doing it. A good friend helping you with this would also work. As you can see in the photo below, all works good. The middle one isn't lit, because I'm not at the wheel pressing the brake but I assure you, if you test it the way I did, mine works just not in the photo.
13.) Let's go in the reverse order and start putting things back together. First, we are going to put each bulb into the assembly and twist clockwise to lock them in.
14.) Everything looks good, so let's put the assembly into the cab, making sure everything is aligned and fits.
15.) Grab your screws, the two of them and guide them into their respective locations. Don't tighten too hard or you'll break the assembly plastic. It will leak if it breaks.
That's it. Now your 3rd brake light on your F150 Ecoboost truck are LED's. Enjoy!
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Installing a catch can will help your engine breathe a little better. A catch can removes all of the toxic, oil, fuel and condensation mixture out of circulation. Keeping a cleaner intake and intercooler. Here is a guide by the guys who made the UPR catch can available for our trucks.
1. The installation requires you to lift the wire harness off the stud on the driver side fan shroud stud.
4. Next you will remove the passenger side PCV hose that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold by the throttle body.
9. Now you can tighten the bolts and lock the can in place and double check all your connections
10. Start your engine let it idle and walk around and check everything one last time and your all set.
As others have complained, my A/C just does not quite cut it in the 110+degree AZ heat. After being told my truck with within spec at the dealership, I began searching on how I could improve it myself. After looking at the A/C lines I noticed big portions of the "cold" side lines were not insulated. Here is my truck, 2012 xlt ecoboost.
I went out and got some baseline temp numbers 2 days ago, the testing was done on the same stretch of highway for 15 minutes to get everything as cool as it would get, I had set cruise at 70. I used a digital thermometer in the driver side right vent. For this test the A/C was on max with the fan speed as high as it would go and it was 109 degrees outside. As seen below, the coldest it would get was 44.4 when the compressor was on, as soon as it shut down it would jump to 51.1 before cycling on again.
On to the project, you will need 3 feet of foam pipe insulation and 10 or so zip ties, both found at any home improvement store. You will need snips and a razor knife.
Your goal is to cover as much of the fat silver "cool" line as you can.
I did the run up to the firewall first, it was about a 14" piece. followed by 3 additional runs trimming around corners and the fill nozzle.
Next for the test run, it was 111 outside (2 degrees warmer), same speed and same stretch of road after 15 min my compressor on temp drooped to 42.2 and on the compressor off cycle the highest it would get 48.3 before cycling back on.
In summary for about $8 in material I got 2.2 degrees cooler on the compressor on cycle and 4.3 degrees cooler during the compressor off cycle.
*Keep in mind it was also 2 degrees warmer outside during the after the insulation install test.
Originally Posted By LS1POWERED on F150FORUM
]]>Ever wanted to find out a little bit extra about your F150 Ecoboost? Like your Ford truck build information? If you have the VIN of your vehicle, which also can be located on the left front driver side, under the windshield, then you are in luck. Visit the link below and enter your VIN. After you click on the "SEARCH" button it should display the extra basic built information from FORD about your truck.
Our trucks are great, but sometimes they do run into trouble. We're talking about F150 Ecoboost Shudder. Following are some possible fixes to the Shuddering and Engine Miss or Loss of Power that some are experiencing with their 2011+ F150 Ecoboost trucks. So here we go with the few possibilities. Anyone interested in listing more, please do submit them to us at info@f150ecoboost.com with subject line "Shuddering and Power Loss".
Introduced for the 2011 model year, the Ecoboost family of engines comes in a variety of four- and six-cylinder sizes (and even three-cylinder) and is available on everything from the compact Focus to the workhorse F-150. Popular sizes include the 3.5L V6, 2.7L V6, 1.6L I4, and even a 2.3L which will be offered in the 2015 Mustang. Each one of these engines incorporates a common set of characteristics: turbocharging and direct injection.
The combination of turbocharging and direct injection results in more airflow and pin-point fuel delivery. Using the greater air volume from the turbocharger and increased fuel efficiency from direct injection, the Ecoboost engine creates power on par with larger, naturally aspirated engines while achieving much better fuel economy. Plus, the pin-point fuel delivery of the direct injection design fosters a reduced amount of “greenhouse emissions.”
Still, as motorheads and performance enthusiasts, we’re always wanting more. Building on the technology outlined above, here are some popular upgrades that will help you maximize the performance of your 3.5L Ecoboost engine:
It’s no secret that aftermarket intakes can increase power over stock intakes. aFe claims its Magnum Force Pro 5R Stage-2 intake system will boost power by 25 horsepower and 30 ft.-lbs. of torque. To do so, the intake features a 3-angle filter adapter, which aFe says increases air velocity for increased throttle response. It also uses a 16-gauge heat shield and heat-insulating black powdercoated intake tube to keep the air as cold and dense as possible.
aFe’s Classic Stage 2 Pro GUARD 7 air intake systemtakes things to a whole new level with a dual tube design and H-pipe balance tube—a feature usually reserved for exhaust systems. aFe promotes this balance tube as a way to increase turbo response. The Pro Guard 7 also comes with a heat shield to keep intake temperatures down.
By swapping out your stock intercooler, you can enhance the efficiency of the Ecoboost’s turbocharger. For example, the aFe Blade Runner intercooler is more efficient than the stock unit and outflows the OE tube-and-fin core by 20 percent. In field testing, the Blade Runner cooled outlet flow temperature to 77 degrees while the stock intercooler brought the outlet flow temperature to 91 degrees.
The bottom line is a greater volume or cooler, denser air reaches your engine from the turbocharger.
So after reading about filling the stock Sony sub woofer box with 1 lb. of Poly fill and not being able to find any images of how to do it (though it is an easy job some people like myself like to see what you're up against from someone that has previously done it) or any information really other than the usual, "I filled mine and it sounds great" or "have you heard it or tried to fill yours to see how it comes out". I decided to do it and throw up some pictures it was well worth the time is impressive the difference that it makes truly it probably took about 20-30 minutes total time (that was taking my time and doing it very slowly) and the sound gains from it are well worth it.
(These are step-by-step instructions maybe a little simple for some or not detailed enough for others but I think they cover the job pretty well)
1. ) First thing you do is unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the Sub box down. The back bolt is exposed the front bolt is under caps that are easily removed by hand.
2. ) Once the bolts are removed you will find the speaker cables, those are disconnected with the little clip from underneath.
3.) Now you can remove the box from the truck and take it inside (or were ever you want to work on it).
4.) Once you are set up wherever you're going to be filling the box there is a single bolt on the top holding the sub by the magnet side. It is secured by blue Loctite and takes some force to get it off.
5.) Now that the sup is removed (I left the wires connected that they are easily removed) fill the box with the poly-fil even if you don't think it will all fit, it will, just keep jamming it into the corners. now place the sub back in and follow the directions in reverse and go back and install it into the truck. (there is an arrow on the cover of the sub and one on the box they need to match up when you reinstall the sub into the box after filling it)
I did a 12 ounce bag of poly-fil which is a little less than the recommended 1 pound but it fit in there perfectly and truly I don't think that 4 ounces is going to make that much of a difference. Now test it out and enjoy, it is impressive truly. Not like having a 2 12" sups but a vast improvement in bass.
Originally Posted by GJN25 on F150Ecoboost.net
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